How do I get the right difficulty?

Each climbing exercise should be done at a certain effort level. This means you are:

  • Training the correct energy system
  • Prompting your body to make strength adaptions
  • Not wasting your time
  • Not injuring yourself

Each exercise naturally has a factor that can be adjusted to optimise your training, these are:

  • Amount of weight (e.g. for weighted pull-up)
  • Number of reps (e.g. for hangboard repeater)
  • Time per rep (e.g. for plank)
  • Climbing grade (e.g. for ARC session)

Look for these controls during a session, you’ll be able to increase or decrease one of the factors listed about to match the effort level.

For example, if an exercise calls for maximum effort, you should just about be able to complete it (don’t regularly train to failure, this can be unhelpful)